Before buying a new pet rabbit one needs to ask oneself a few questions first, to ensure that both the rabbit and owner alike have a happy future together.
Would a rabbit fit into the family’s lifestyle? Will there be enough time left to spend daily quality time with the new family member? Where should the rabbit live, indoors or outdoors? How long do rabbits live? Who will feed it when on holiday and what should it be fed and how much? Which breed? Is the rabbit for a child or for an adult? How much will it cost to buy and to keep? What size hutch is required? Buck or doe? What about vet bills?
Many questions indeed and they should be discussed with all the family members first, before embarking on a search for the perfect pet rabbit.
Let us assume you finally decided to buy a rabbit. There are so many breeds and colours to choose from. You can buy rabbits from a pet shop, or directly from a breeder. Buying from a pet shop can sometimes be disheartening, as you won’t be able to see the rabbit’s parentage. You won’t know where the rabbit came from and you can only assume that the shop staff told you the truth about its age. All too often staff lack the necessary knowledge to provide the potential new owner with some useful information, whereas if you were to buy from a reputable breeder you can be assured of a wealth of information coming your way, with most if not all your questions being answered. Another good source from which to obtain a rabbit are the many rabbit rescue centres up and down the country which, sadly, are often overrun with unwanted rabbits of all ages. Whatever you decide in the end you are strongly advised to do your ground work first, before making any commitments.
The issue of size and weight of a rabbit is also of great importance, especially if the rabbit is meant to be for a child, in which case a smaller breed would possibly be more suitable for the child to handle. The average life span of a rabbit can vary between some breeds, however, it lies between five and eight years, though some fortunate rabbits have reached 10 years and beyond.
The choice of either buck or doe is a personal one, bearing in mind that once a doe has reached sexual maturity she may get a little grumpy at times and the buck may spray. To avoid such hormone-linked behaviour it may be a good idea to have the doe spayed and the buck neutered.
Once you have chosen a rabbit you really like you will need to carry out some essential health checks first: Check that its eyes are bright and clear and not running. Check that there is no discharge coming from its nose and that the fur and the inside of ears are free from any mites. You will also need to check the rabbit’s teeth for any malocclusion, i.e. a misalignment of the incisors (front teeth). The incisors need to be straight and parallel to each other and not be overgrown. If you are happy with the checks so far then you will also need to check the rabbit underneath that it is totally free from any soiling, especially under the tail and in the area around the anus and sexual organs. If it smells then it may have some tummy upset – no matter how cute the rabbit you do not wish to take a sick rabbit home, as this can lead to a lot of problems and, consequently, vet bills or, even worse, its death.
If you wish to keep your rabbit as a house rabbit then you will need to look into getting the house bunny proof, especially if your rabbit is to have the run in the house. Furthermore, you will need to find a nice, cool and quiet place where to put the rabbit’s accommodation in. Rabbits too need to be able to retreat and have a bit of piece and quiet. It goes without saying that the rabbit’s accommodation must not be put near a radiator or in a room that is too warm. There are many indoor cages available to choose from, the larger the better.
If the rabbit is to be kept outdoors you will need to find it a nice sturdy and weatherproof hutch. Most hutches are made of wood, which is still one of the most preferred materials for outdoor hutches. The size of the hutch depends on the size of the rabbit. All too often rabbits end up in a hutch that is far too small, which can lead to osteoporosis due to a lack of sufficient exercise. Ideal would be a 4’ hutch for small to medium sized rabbits, combined with an attached run, where the rabbit can run in and out from via a collapsible ramp during the day, and be locked up safely in the hutch during the night. For larger breeds the rabbit should be kept in a 5’ – 7’+ hutch, again with an attached run. The hutch will also need to be made especially secure if there is the possibility of foxes in the neighbourhood. To avoid heatstroke ensure that the hutch is not exposed to direct sunlight. Drafts and dampness must also be avoided for the rabbit to remain healthy.
With regard to bedding the most popular material is plenty of high-quality, if possible dust-free wood shavings. It is kind on the rabbit’s feet and, if changed at least once a week, will keep the rabbit clean and dry.
A rabbit that is fed a healthy diet will, in most cases, stay healthy. A good quality hay and water should be available at all times. A mix or pellets with a high-fibre content (min. 18% better still 24%) should be fed daily. Attention is to be paid on how much to feed, the information of which can be found on the feed packaging, as overfeeding can lead to obesity. A daily treat of either, carrot, apple, pear, celery, cabbage leaves and broccoli will further put variety into your rabbit’s diet. Hard/dried wholemeal bread and crisp bread can also be fed in moderation.
Finally, once the rabbit is at home it is best to let it settle down for a while. All too often rabbits get stressed out as, by the time they found their final home they would already have been in their second or third one. This, however, will be its real home now and, hopefully, its last.
Goldiestud, 26th February 2007
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